Head Cheese

 By Bruce Shawkey

Jones Dairy Farm in Fort Atkinson used to sell a product called Head Cheese. (above). Apparently, there is so little demand for it any more, they no longer sell it. Head cheese (Dutch: hoofdkaas) or brawn, is a cold cut terrine or meat jelly that originated in Europe, possibly Germany or the Netherlands. It is made with flesh from the head of a calf or pig (less commonly a sheep or cow), typically set in aspic, and usually eaten cold, at room temperature, or in a sandwich. Despite its name, the dish is not a cheese and contains no dairy products. The parts of the head used vary, and may include the tongue but do not commonly include the brain, eyes or ears. Trimmings from more commonly eaten cuts of pork and veal are often used, and sometimes the feet and heart, with gelatin added as a binder.

Variations of head cheese exist throughout Europe and elsewhere, with differences in preparation and ingredients. A version pickled with vinegar is known as souse. Historically, meat jellies were made of the head of an animal, less its organs, which would be simmered to produce a naturally gelatinous stock that would congeal as the dish cooled. Meat jellies made this way were commonly a peasant food and have been made since the Middle Ages. Modern head cheese recipes may require additional gelatin, or more often need to be reduced to set properly.

It is still sold by a number of retailers.

I remember a recipe for Head Cheese was contained in a recipe book by Helen Myhre of Norske Nook fame (left). It said to split a pig's head (after it's been shaved) with an axe to get at the meat in order to get to the meat to make the "cheese." Talk about a time-consuming and exhaustive recipe! Just shows those Norskes didn't waste a thing! Helen grew up in farm country, and learned at an early age how to cook for farmers and field hands. In 1973, she opened the Norske Nook cafe in Osseo, Wisconsin.. Helen is still alive by all accounts.